After surveying the effects of Hurricane Maria in St. Thomas, we flew to Puerto Rico to see what the worst natural disaster on record did there. Annnd we wanted to look at a place right on the beach that we'd seen on Zillow.
Before our trip, I knew nothing about Puerto Rico beyond Rosie Perez and that it was a US territory. Once we found the house on Zillow, we started looking into it more and found that it had an epic radio telescope called Aricebo Observatory, a tropical rainforest called El Yunque, bioluminescent bays, and a dry forest called Guanica. The house we wanted to look at was near Guanica, so we rented a car and headed to an amazing resort on the beach where we lost all gumption.
We headed into Guanica Dry Forest to do a little hike and check out the beaches. The dry forest is a pretty unusual eco-system. It's got pine trees and cacti, gobs of birds, and marshland that is home to bajillions of tadpoles. And condoms. There were an inordinate amount of condoms in this area. Good to see people practicing safe sex, I guess.
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| Every black dot is a tadpole. |
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| Somebody knows where to find dinner. |
We followed the walking path past the marsh to an amazing beach, complete with rocky outcroppings and iguanas doing some modeling. We also spotted some crabbies running around all dumb.
The path swung back inland through some scrubby little bushes and we found cotton! Just growing there! I know, that is not the most amazing, rarely seen plant, but it was pretty cool to see it just hanging out in the dry forest being all strange and puffy.
We kept walking, and, in true Mack fashion, we had to stop for a foot injury. Apparently, Mack had sustained a bug bite on the top of his foot and was unable to resist the itch. He carved off the top few layers of skin and his foot was becoming fly bait. We sat under a twisty pine tree to cool off and then headed back to the luxury of the Copamarina.
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| It's not vacation til Mack gets a foot injury! And moheads show up on his hands. |
After we attended to some real estate business in Guanica, it was time to move on to other parts of Puerto Rico. I desperately wanted to see El Yunque National Forest, at least its waterfall, and the national forest peeps had cleared the road a few days before our arrival. We made a little detour through the steep terrain in the middle of the island on our way to San Juan and found the waterfall. We didn't get to do much exploration because the roads were closed and Mack's foot was dying, but it was pretty awesome to watch the water rush down the face of the flat rocks.

As we were pulling away from the rainforest we spotted this incredible tower rising up out of the mountain. I later learned this is the Britton Tower, which is now twice as visible as it used to be because all those trees got a haircut during Hurricane Maria. The tower was built in the 1930s as a lookout tower and on a clear day you can see all the way to the sea from it. The hike to the tower was closed, but that didn't matter because Mack's foot was dying.
The grand finale of our Puerto Rico trip was a day in San Juan. I fully did not expect to enjoy San Juan as much as I did, but it is a magical city, on par with Amsterdam. Our first taste came from this incredible street performer who was painted to look like one of the fountain sculptures and who did most of his performance with his eyes closed. He started on this fountain, then got down, then walked about 50 feet across the plaza, then walked back, intermittently yelling strange things in Spanish. It was totally captivating.
As we wandered through the blue cobblestone streets, the city kept on enchanting us. The streets are paved with discarded stones that were used as ballast in boats that came through the port, and they are steep and narrow and lined with extraordinary old facades that beg you to look through their ruins and new versions that are brightly colored and tidy.
We headed toward the door to the city to walk around its perimeter and really fell in love. Amazing artwork was set against walls 10 feet thick and 100 feet high, with lookout towers strategically placed at bends in the wall.
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| La Rogativa, a sculpture depicting a women-led prayer march that the British interpreted as the arrival of reinforcements, one so intimidating that they abandoned their hold on the city. |
We followed the wall past a park full of cats with clipped ears and a charming pink house and eventually walked up on El Morro, a fort built in the 16th century to protect the entrance of the bay of San Juan from invaders, particularly the English and Dutch. I loved El Morro, from the gentle green lawn that gives way to the massive structure full of windwashed bricks and rusty cannons. Prepare to see how much I loved this place.
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| Those cannon balls on the left were meant to shred you sails, in the middle were meant to blast holes in your boat, and on the right were meant to explode into little fireballs and kill whoever they hit and set fire to the rest. |
When we left El Morro, we continued to wander along the coast and came across one of the most incredible cemeteries I've ever seen. I looooove a good cemetery. New Orleans, Savannah, and Havana are home to my favorite cemeteries but this one in San Juan really put them to shame. Crowded, ornate, and pushing right up against the sea. I wanted to go walk up and down the dead but Mack was getting thirsty and had his eyes set on Booty's, a country-western bar he'd found on Yelp.
Booty's refreshed us with its air conditioning and mojitos, and Mack blew the minds of the staff by taking a swig of their house hot sauce like it was nothing. I dabbed it on my tongue and, believe me, it was not nothing. The meandering continued into the evening, when we headed back toward the Hotel de los No-See-Ems and stopped by a little roadside restaurant to try some of Puerto Rico's native dishes.
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| Mofongo, on the left is a fried patty of mashed plantains, onion, and garlic. I don't remember the name of that soup.We also ate bacalaitos, a salty pancake fritter that went down a lil too fast. |
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| Clearly we hated it. |
Hotel de los No-See-Ems, also known as the Beach Club Guest House, was in an awesome location right on the beach and super close to the airport. We soon learned that its location made the beach hammocks more of a human buffet area for the bugs and the soothing sound of the air conditioner was silenced by the roaring sound of jet engines taking off throughout the night. Somehow, though, we managed to make it through and left Puerto Rico with a feeling of fondness and hope that she'll get what she's owed in hurricane recovery efforts.