Originally Written June 16, Embellished July 25
Hello everyone! We've safely arrived in Iran, after roughly 48 hours of intense travel and lots of irritating sleep. On our flight from London to Iran on Iran Air we had the pleasure of sitting right next to the toilet, which, unbeknownst to us, happens to serve the purpose of a cafe car on a train. I swear they were having parties in those stalls that I wasn't invited to. And we had little Iranian boys behind us dancing around and singing "Wild, Wild West" while they kicked and bumped our chairs. I was relieved when we landed... until we got to be picked to go in the little room near the passport window. Everything ended up going fine for us and we made it into the country alright, but the fingerprinted guy next to us who was returning to Iran after 20 years didn't seem as lucky. I heard the guard guy say what I interpreted to mean police followed by an obvious quickening in the other man's breathing. The airport in Tehran was bizarre. Women have separate security entrances, but luckily Mack's uncle Hamid was there to point them out to me or else I would have walked right up to men's. I thought it was a joke. The headscarf wearing is going alright. It's ridiculously hot here, and to think you have to put on a jacket and wrap your head is enough to convince you just to stay home and do Sudoku puzzles. Shahin can't sit still though, so luckily we're being pushed to take some adventures. Today we went to Esfahan, which is about 20 minutes from where we live. It was stunning.

We went to the Bazaar e Bazorg and looked at the coppersmiths making pots and then walked through the Shah's palace and admired the tile work, the view and the paintings of other cultures in the world that Persians encountered before 1600 when the palace was built.



Across from the palace was the Imam Mosque, which has an enormous, echoy dome and some of the most beautiful blue tile work you can imagine. It was pretty incredible to imagine these places in their heyday in the 1500-1600s.



Makes me feel pretty stupid for thinking ours is the most advanced civilization. Sure, we've got cars and computers and air conditioning but when was the last time we laid individual tiles by hand to decorate an enormous dome or put a swimming pool on the top floor of a castle with our bare hands? The palace was pretty cool, I think because of the insulating rocks used in building it and the cross breezes it gets.
We also met a young Iranian guy who is biking across the country for peace. He had pictures of the places he was traveling to and from hanging in the palace and Shahin talked to him about his adventures.

He had these awesome pics of a city that they are excavating that had been buried by sand and dirt. An entire city buried! And they're digging it up! Imagine! We haven't had time to lose anything in our baby country.
After making the rounds at Imam Square we walked along the river and explored the amazing bridges in Esfahan. They're so cool. We stopped for tea in a shop underneath the bridge and watched the local men smoking hookahs. They used to let you walk all the way across the river under the bridge on these little pillars that stuck out of the water, but it was fenced off for some reason. That didn't stop the Iranians though. They kicked off their shoes and waded right on across, climbed over the shoddy barbed wire near the tea house and went on their merry way. So, you can walk under the bridge, on top of the bridge on the street, or through the covered sidewalk on the side of the bridge. At one of the bridges we watched some local fishermen cast nets out and try to catch fish, and at another one, I walked under it and looked to the other end only to see about 40 platforms from one end to the other covered with people in black headscarves. It reminded me of sea lions on a pier, but they were people. I wanted to get a photo so bad, but I felt guilty that they reminded me of animals so I didn't.

It's really different in Iran than in the US, better in some ways and not in others. The people here are really educated and very friendly, but there is serious unemployment and underemployment. People with masters and phd degrees who work as airport security or taxi drivers.
The driving is insane... yeah, that is a two-lane highway, but those lines are just guidelines. If there's an inch to move forward, you can drive into it. And crossing the street is like playing frogger with yourself as the frog. We sleep and eat on the floor. They lay out a big tablecloth and we all sit around it and eat. The food is incredible and we have tea time with fruit a couple times a day. Then at night we lay out thin futon-like mattresses in one of the three rooms with nothing in it but our luggage and some enormous Persian rugs and go to sleep. Some people sleep out in the courtyard since it's so cool at night. After lunch we take naps, so that's been really helpful in helping me dodge jetlag. I was thinking I'd have a tougher go at sleeping on the floor, but I'm actually sleeping better and harder than when I have a bed. Today is Friday so it's like our Sunday and no one works really. We're going to a park to meet the rest of the family and have dinner. Blankets and rugs spread out in the grass, huge pots of food for everyone to eat from.

Marzia, Shahin, Me, The Other Shahin

Donia, Mehdi and Laila Raided the Rosebushes at the Park
Mack's family has been so nice. His grandpa told me all the good and bad things -- khube and khube nist -- to visit in Iran and how other countries can be categorized. For the record, the US and Bush are khele khube (very good) and Tehran is khube nist (not good, but I think he was talking about it in terms of visiting). For a while I thought he was talking about India because he kept saying Inja, but then I learned that that means here and not India, so that really cleared things up. The language has been pretty limiting, but Shahin is a great guide... and affordable too! I keep trying to spend money and no one will let me. They negotiate with the sales person for me, but then they say, this is a birthday present, or a wedding present, or, like today I got a gift for mom and dad, and "that can be a gift from momma bazork and bobba bazork (Shahin's parents... that means Grandma and Grandpa) to your parents. A taxi is 40 cents for 5 people to ride into town, and gas is 32 cents per gallon. Did I mention the food is incredible? I'm having an incredible time and feel so lucky I get to visit here. Better go to dinner now. Love to everyone and you've got to see the pictures when I get home. The don't do the place justice, but they are beautiful!
XOXOXO,
amber















































