I know, I know. You're all anticipating the wedding photos, updates on the stubble, and other Iran-related material, but you must be subject to the same stuff I already sent in the order I sent it. Deal with it.
Originally emailed June 18, revamped July 28
Salaam all the people I love,
Hope this finds you well. Life in Iran is ticking by as expected. We've tasted boredom, only because all the fun available is G-rated or sweetened. We've also tasted pizza, which is peculiarly enough served without any sauce but with packets of ketchup. I think it's better without the sugary paste, but everyone else seems to be a fan of the modified pizza. Mack's been wowing audiences with his magic abilities... until their Iranian natures ruin the magic and start messing with his tricks.


And we've been enjoying demonstrating our mastery of the "bounce a matchstick on the carpet" trick that we learned on day one and that has been shown to us every day since then. Oh, I've also been painting flowers on toes and fingers with my Sally Hansen French Manicure kit and a bobby pin. Good times.

Today we went to Mack's mom's sister's house. Marzia and her husband, Hamid, have a house a lot like his grandparents, only more modern. We basically sat on the floor for six hours, breaking up the time in 15 minute increments to take in fruit or tea or ice cream or sunflower seeds or rice or tea or tea or tea. Hamid turned on the tv at one point and you should have seen my face light up when he flipped to the Croc Hunter movie. Then he changed the channel to some music video with a blonde Iranian acting all a floosie, and we went back to sitting on the floor and eating and drinking tea. Marzia and Hamid have two kids, Razia, who is a little chubby, shy, sweet 11 year old girl who stares at me like I am a movie star, and Amid, who, sorry for Seth, has agreed to marry Betsy. He's cute if you ignore the broken front tooth and the occasional bursts of BO. Everyone is incredibly sweet and the way I talk about them now really is a direct result of sitting on the floor for six consecutive hours.
I have rediscovered the thrill of the bing cherry, which Sarah first opened my eyes to during a road trip to somewhere. Cherries are everywhere here and man are they good. A couple nights ago we sat on the back porch (read marble slab coming off back of house into courtyard) and spit probably 100 cherry seeds into the 4' by 4' plot of dirt in the middle of the courtyard. Good times. Marzia gave me a ring today as a gift. Brides get gifts here. I'm still waiting for my 15 goats but until then, the ring is really sweet looking. Gold with a stone that I think is probably cubic zirconia, but it's sweet looking nonetheless.
Yesterday we went to meet with a hairdresser, which was totally bizarre. I had to look at an album to pick out a hairstyle I liked for our party and whoa. I told Mack's mom I ought to get something exotic, and i was being sarcastic in response to the ludacris eyeliner and purple eyeshadow and pink lipstick that a lot of girls here wear that make them look like dangerous kitty cats high on cotton candy. I think she took me seriously. Some of the make up on those girls was so thick they were white. And the woman who does the make up had about 1/4" on her face and the most fried hair I've ever seen. I just told Shahin to tell her I'd stop her if she did something I didn't like. It should be an experience. I think we also get to do Henna. Shahin's sister Fedeshtah knows how to do it, so she's going to do it for us. I'm excited for that because I've never seen it done in real life and never had it done to me.
We've been eating a lot of good food. Rice and soups and lamb and fruit and kababs. Last night we stopped at a park and ate falafel sandwiches and sambusa from a street vendor. He had a little fry pit and everything right there next to him. That was some amazing food. The falafel sandwiches were like a foot long with pickles and tomatoes and some parsley onion spread, but they were nothing compared to the sambusas. They were little fried triangles of goodness. Mack's mom said they were vegetarian, but I swear they had chicken in them. Whatever it was, it was delicious. Veggies, meat, whatever all fried in a little bread casing, and then you take the teddy bear shaped hot sauce dispenser to your picnic spot and coat every bite. Yum. Yum again. That and the orange (colored, not tasting) soup have been my favorite things to eat here so far, and seeing as how I haven't thought anything here was even mediocre, that's saying something.
We took a couple falafel sandwiches home for Momma Bazorge and Bobba Bazorge (Gma and Gpa), and BBZ refused to eat his. He started spouting off in the most hilarious way about how that food can't be trusted and how eating it coats your mouth with oil and has cat pee and dog poop in it. Turns out the man, who is 68 years oldish, has never in his life eaten in a restaurant. Never had fast food. Only eats what he has made for him at home. Well, once he got on his little rampage, he couldn't be stopped. I laughed so hard I drooled. I had no idea what he was saying, even though Shahin was trying to keep up with him and translate it, but his gesturing was so funny I couldn't contain myself.

Everyone was laughing so hard. He has the most amazing stories. Like he used to smuggle cigarettes from Iraq and Pakistan taped to his body while he trekked through water. Then, when he wanted to be a cab driver but he couldn't read and write to take the test, he went to the shah's palace and said, "I've got five daughters to feed. You can either give me the license or feed my daughters." Like a week later they changed the law so you could take a picture test and then just drive the car for the other part of your test.

At one point Tom got up to go have a smoke and on his way out he shook BBZ's hand, and he grabbed hold of it really tight. Well, that led to another story that was confirmed by MBZ. BBZ had an old Paykan car that had 8,000,000 (not a typo) kilometers on it (like 5,000,000 miles... not a typo) and he just got rid of it last year when the govt bought it from him because it was such a polluter. Shahin bought him a new car that he now covers even if it sits in its covered carport, but that's another story. Well, one time this motorcylce guy hit his Paykan and he got out and grabbed the guy by his britches and wouldn't let him go, even as he sat on his bike and tried to drive away. Finally the guy said, for the love of god man let me go. I'm sorry! and BBZ just raved about how strong he was. At which point it was revealed to us that he went to have back surgery six months ago unbeknownst to anyone until it was over. He said, I'll see you in a little while, and next thing they know he's had fused vertebrae surgery! He's so cute when he tells the story.

Laila summed him up best when she said, "He's a man on the top, with a round belly, but he has little kid legs." He does! His legs are so scrawny and bendy and it just makes when he's really bombastic even funnier. We've had the most fun just watching him tell stories we don't understand. He grabs my head a lot and pulls it over to kiss it when I sit on his little day bed. He's very sweet and funny and animated. I'm forgetting half of his hilariousness since I'm trying to think of it, but he is a character that I'm glad I got to meet. His favorite thing is watches. We were here less than a day when Mack traded his Fossil watch for BBZ's old man looking watch. He didn't like the metal wrist band so he took it up to the watch store to have a leather band put on it. Then today, when we were at Marzia's house, he pulled out another watch and wore two on one wrist. Apparently he hides watches at other people's houses.

(No idea what Marel's V-sign means, don't think she has any idea either.)
Tomorrow night we're going to Shiraz to spend the night (since we're foreigners we get to sleep in sin together in the same room, but for a minute we were worried we might have to get one of those temporary marriages that people get so they can sleep with whores) and then going to see Persepolis, which I am very excited about. I'll send out an update after that. Hope everyone is well. Love you!
Amber
PS. Sarah -- I'll be gone by the time you get to KY, but I hope you and Kristin and Will have lots of good stories to tell when we all get together again. I love you!